9.10.2012

Costco Yardline Everton Shed Review

This is my actual shed...paint job courtesy of my wife

As the years progress and my family grows larger, we are steadily accumulating "stuff" to the point where our property has the gravity comparable to one of the smaller moons of Saturn.  Specifically, we have collected a lot of crap that "goes in the garage."  One wouldn't think it was possible to fill my 3 and a 1/2 car garage with 11' ceilings, but alas, it's amazing how many saws, hammers, paint cans, bikes, decorations, water jugs, baby clothes, etc are in there.  I have 6 freaking gas cans.  6!!  Add in a boat and boat toys over the last year, and you now have to swing by ropes from the ceiling to get to the other side.  Good thing I was so awesome playing Pitfall as a youth.

We needed more room.
We needed a shed.

My idea of a shed is different than most.  Most sheds are dark, damp places where rodents reign and trannys (car trannys, not schlong trannys...although to each his/her own) sit in the corner covered by tarps.  I do not care for this type of shed.  I want my shed to be an inviting, attractive place where I can access my belongings without fear of bombardment by black widows and dust mites.

I couldn't afford a tuff shed, nor did I need to land a motorcycle on it's roof.  I also didn't want a cheap vinyl shed that you put together like Legos.  Luckily, Costco was running a discount on their Yardline Everton Shed.

The Everton is 8'x12' with a 10' high peak.  It has front barn doors, and attractive overhangs on the front/sides of the shed.  There is a 3'x8' loft area, and a 8'x12" shelf on the back wall.

How did the Everton size up to the competition?  Let me list a pros/cons list for the Everton:

Pros:

Cost -- This was $999 with free delivery at Costco.  It is a 1300 pound behemoth, so the delivery was nice.  It comes bundled in a package the size of a small Kia, and you'll spend 2 hours unpacking and creating your own version of the Shed big bang theory.

Ease of installation -- If you have enough skills to build a model rocket or fix an RC car, you can build this shed.  All pieces come pre-cut, and all hardware is included.  I spent a little extra and bought some nails for my nail gun, which made the job easier.  You'll be placing over 2000 nails by the time you're finished with this project.  It took me 4-5 full working days to assemble/paint/roof.  I spread that over a 6 week period.  I'm lazy.

Storage -- This is a very large shed.  This is especially nice because our preparation for the inevitable zombie apocalypse has caused our garage to be filled with ammo, food, water, napalm, and Chinese stars.  We can now store all of our normal garage stuff in the shed.

Quality of materials -- The shed uses 2x4 framing, 16" on center joists, 5/8" floor-boards, and a large 56" door opening.  It is feels very solid.  I believe that in a pinch, you could store well over 100,000 rounds of ammo and 3 kegs of Milwaukee's Best without damaging the floor.

Zombie-proof -- The loft is about 6 feet above the ground floor.  If zombies break through the walls or door, you could sit in the loft and calmly double-tap each intruder until they are all dead(er).  I suggest storing some beef jerky, Mt Dew, and sunflower seeds in the loft at all times to replenish while you spray brains on the walls.

Cons:

Cost -- This shed is not complete without spending additional funds.  You will need to buy roof shingles, paint, wood glue, caulk, drip-guard, roofing nails, and an optional trip-wire for the entrance.  These things can run you another 3-400 dollars depending on the quality of the items.

Quality of materials -- Despite the fact that the pieces of wood are pre-cut, you will encounter some bowed/bent pieces.  The installation manual states that you can call customer service for replacements, but who's really going to wait around for a week to have a 2x4 delivered?  I had 4-6 pieces that required some serious muscle power to straighten.

Back-wall shelf -- This thing is way too shallow.  At 12 inches, you can only store paint or old porno magazines on it.  This should be a 18-24" shelf.

Zombie-proof -- I give this shed a 1-hour rating until zombies break through the walls and enter.  I strongly suggest having weapons on your person at all times, or storing some in the shed.

This is a great-looking shed at a very affordable price point.  I had very few beefs, but they were enough to deduct 1 star.  A solid 4-star rating.


6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Friends bought this shed and asked me to assemble it with them as I have years of building experience.
OMG....The fact that all the pieces fit into an 8x4 package should've clued me in. I also should have read the reviews prior to starting to work on this. The instruction booklet is about 8 inches by 5 inches and the pictures are very small. Since it came in such a large package, you would think that they could print it on 8.5 x 11 paper.
I built a foundation for the shed out of PT lumber and 7/16 OSB and put it on small pier blocks to avoid earth/wood contact. I made it 8x12 to accommodate the new shed. Guess what? It isn't truly 8x12 at the base. The ROOF is 12 long as it overhangs but not the base itself. So, I had to cut off a section at the back end (about 4in) to make the shed fit precisely on the foundation. The wood they provide for their flooring is a joke. It is wood preservative coated 2x4's (which were horribly bowed/twisted) and some scrawny OSB. I am so happy I built the foundation I did. I used their PT wood to replace several of the bowed/twisted wood in their kit. The stamping on the wood pieces was non-existent in some. The design of the walls is silly as it is 2 foot on center and since the wood is pre-cut to fit into the delivery package, you end up with a weak mid point on the wall where you are pinning two top plates onto one 2x4. I turned the 2x4 on its long edge and doubled up by adding another piece from their pt group. IF I had more time, I would've gotten a single piece of 2x4 for the top plate. Did that for both sides. Also had to replace one of the top plates as it was so bowed, it made everything out of square. I also was shocked at the frame for the back panel. Really? How in the world is that going to stay in place as you try to screw it in? So, I used some more of the leftover foundation boards to make a beefier back wall.
I, too, had a framing nail gun which made this a LOT more easier. I couldn't imagine trying to do this by hand nailing. The trim pieces are nothing more than OSB and they are open on the edges, so they are not water resistant at all. I bought some extra trim to pin at all the siding butt joints to avoid water moving into the joint in the future. The back rafter has no trim to go on it so it is a piece of Douglas fir exposed to the weather. That got major priming as did the edges on their trim pieces. They also want you to CUT THROUGH the back wall upper frame piece to install a vent...I moved mine to one side.
So, to improve this: Better framing wood, better instructions, better foundation materials (or build your own), better trim boards, better frame for the back wall. For $1000, I might have been able to buy all the materials and done a better job myself.

Ahmad Abdullah said...

This was a good suggestion that you put up here...dude…..hope that it benefits all the ones who land up here. 

Solid Wood Doors

Florida Roofing Contractors said...

Wow. That's just really gorgeous.

Rod Anderson said...

Hey do you happen to remember the name of the paint color you used for this shed? Brand and color of paint if you recall please.

We are getting ready to paint the exterior of our home and came across this photo and LOVE that color!!!!

Matt said...

Hi Rod. The brand is ultra premium valspar exterior satin finish. The color is olive sawdust. We used just about 2 gallons on the shed. I don't recall the white trim color.
If I did it again, I'd pick just a shade darker brown. It does look nice...but is just a shade lighter than our home.

Rod Anderson said...

You rock my friend! Thank you!

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